Artisan pouring natural dye from a ceramic vessel into a metal tray, part of the traditional Indian textile dyeing process

DYEING & COLOUR

NATURAL dyes OF INDIA

For thousands of years, Indian dyers drew their colours from the land itself ~ from roots pulled at dawn, from leaves crushed in stone mortars, from minerals dug from river beds. This is the palette that clothed empires and crossed oceans, and its knowledge still lives in the hands of artisans today.

CRAFT & HERITAGE

Dye tables laid out with fabric during the natural dyeing process at the workshop

A LIVING tradition

India is, by any measure, the birthplace of textile dyeing. The subcontinent's extraordinary botanical diversity, its complex mineral geology, and the accumulated knowledge of countless generations of dyers have produced a natural colour palette that no other region on earth can match.

From the deepest indigo blues of Bengal to the bright turmeric yellows of Kerala, from the madder reds of Rajasthan to the iron blacks of Gujarat, the colours of India have been drawn from the earth, refined through centuries of practice, and traded across the known world.

The knowledge of natural dyeing in India is not simply historical. It is living. In villages across Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh, and Tamil Nadu, artisans continue to prepare and apply natural dyes using methods that have changed little in centuries. The revival of natural dyeing ~ driven by environmental awareness, the slow fashion movement, and growing international demand ~ has given new economic life to these traditions in recent decades.

Did you know?

While natural dyes are a vital part of the Indian textile story ~ and one we deeply respect ~ Daughters of India uses eco-friendly AZO-free dyes for our garments, not natural dyes. This choice allows us to offer the colour consistency, wash fastness, and lightfastness our customers expect, while ensuring our dyes are free from the harmful compounds found in some conventional synthetic dyes. Understanding natural dyes matters because they are the foundation from which all dyeing knowledge has grown. The craft tradition does not exist without them.

Natural dye sources being gathered and prepared

HOW NATURAL DYEING works

Roots are pulled at dawn, leaves crushed in stone mortars, minerals dug from river beds. The dye source ~ whether indigo leaf, madder root, pomegranate rind, or iron rust ~ must be gathered at the right season and prepared with care. India's extraordinary botanical diversity provides a palette no other region on earth can match.

Each dye source requires its own preparation. Indigo must be fermented and reduced to a soluble form. Madder roots are ground and simmered. Iron scraps are soaked in jaggery water for weeks to produce kas. The preparation is patient, slow work ~ and it determines everything that follows.

Before dyeing, the fabric is treated with mordants ~ metallic salts such as alum or iron ~ that create a chemical bridge between fibre and dye. Different mordants with the same dye produce completely different colours. This is the ancient science at the heart of Indian textile dyeing.

Fabric is immersed in the dye bath, sometimes repeatedly. Indigo requires multiple dips with air oxidation between each. After dyeing, the cloth is washed to remove unfixed dye, then dried in the open air. The final colour reveals itself only after this last step ~ the patient conclusion of a process that may have taken days or weeks.

THE GREAT DYES of India

Indigo ~ Indigofera tinctoria

Deep blue, ranging from pale sky blue to near-black depending on the number of dips. The leaves of the Indigofera tinctoria plant, native to India. The word "indigo" itself derives from the Greek "indikon," meaning "Indian." Indigo is one of the most chemically fascinating dyes in existence. The dye molecule (indigotin) is insoluble in water. To dye fabric, the indigo must first be reduced ~ either through chemical means or, traditionally, through fermentation ~ to a soluble form called leuco-indigo. Fabric is dipped into this yellowish-green solution, and when it is removed and exposed to air, oxidation converts the leuco-indigo back to indigotin on the fibre, producing the characteristic blue colour. Multiple dips produce deeper shades. India was the world's primary source of indigo for centuries. The exploitation of Indian indigo farmers by British colonial plantations in Bengal was so severe that it sparked the Indigo Revolt of 1859 and later became the subject of Gandhi's first satyagraha at Champaran in 1917. Read the full story of indigo →

Madder Root ~ Rubia tinctorum & cordifolia

Red, ranging from bright vermillion to soft coral to deep maroon, depending on the mordant used. The roots of the Rubia plant family. Rubia tinctorum (European madder) and Rubia cordifolia (Indian madder, known as "manjistha") are the two principal species. Madder's primary colourant is alizarin. The colour it produces depends heavily on the mordant used: with alum, madder gives a bright, warm red; with iron, it shifts to a deep purple-black; with tin, it brightens to an orange-scarlet. This mordant-dependent colour shifting is central to the art of Indian block printing. Fragments of madder-dyed cloth have been found in the ruins of Mohenjo-daro (c. 2500 BCE). It was the primary red dye across India, the Middle East, and Europe for millennia. Explore madder & earth pigments →

Pomegranate Rind ~ Punica granatum

Yellow to golden brown, warm olive green (with iron mordant). The dried rind (pericarp) of the pomegranate fruit. India is one of the world's largest pomegranate producers, and the rinds have been used as a dye source for centuries. Pomegranate rind is rich in tannins and produces a warm yellow-gold on alum-mordanted fabric. With iron mordant, it shifts to olive green and deep khaki. It is often used as a base colour or in combination with other dyes ~ for example, pomegranate followed by indigo produces a range of greens. Widely used in Rajasthan (particularly Bagru and Sanganer), Gujarat, and across South India. Valued not only for its colour but for its role as a natural mordant.

Turmeric ~ Curcuma longa

Bright, vivid yellow. The rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant. India produces roughly 80 percent of the world's turmeric. Turmeric produces an intensely bright yellow that dyes cotton and silk readily, even without a mordant. However, turmeric is notoriously fugitive ~ it fades rapidly with washing and exposure to light. For this reason, it is often used in combination with more lightfast dyes, or reserved for items where symbolic meaning is more important than durability. Turmeric-dyed cloth carries deep ritual significance in Hindu culture. Yellow and saffron-toned garments are worn at weddings, religious ceremonies, and festivals. The colour symbolises purity, fertility, and auspiciousness.

Artisan working at the indigo screen printing table, deep blue patterned fabric stretched across the workspace

An artisan works at the indigo printing table ~ the vivid blue of natural indigo revealing its depth through the printed pattern.

“The knowledge of which roots to dig, which season to harvest, how long to ferment ~ this is intangible cultural heritage of extraordinary depth. Every dyer who practises is a living repository of knowledge that stretches back thousands of years.”

Daughters of India

EARTH, IRON & resin

Iron Rust ~ Kas / Kasim

Deep black, charcoal grey. Iron solution, traditionally prepared by soaking scrap iron ~ often old horseshoe nails ~ in a mixture of jaggery (unrefined cane sugar) and water for several weeks. The resulting dark liquid is called "kas" or "kasim" in Rajasthan. Iron acts as both a dye and a mordant. When applied to tannin-rich fabric (pre-treated with myrobalan or pomegranate), iron reacts with the tannins to produce a deep, permanent black. This iron-tannin chemistry is one of the most ancient dyeing techniques known. The preparation of kas is a slow, patient process. Iron pieces are submerged in jaggery water and left to ferment, sometimes for two to three weeks. The distinctive smell of kas ~ sharp, metallic, slightly sweet ~ is one of the defining sensory experiences of a traditional Indian print workshop.

Myrobalan ~ Terminalia chebula

Pale yellow-green on its own; primarily used as a mordant and tannin source. The dried fruit of the Terminalia chebula tree, known as "harad" or "harda" in Hindi. Myrobalan is rich in chebulic and gallic acids, both potent tannins. In the block printing tradition, fabric is pre-treated with a myrobalan solution before printing ~ this creates a tannin-rich ground that reacts with iron-based printing pastes to produce deep blacks and with alum-based pastes to produce reds when subsequently dyed with madder. Myrobalan is the invisible foundation of the entire mordant-printed colour palette. Myrobalan is also one of the three fruits in the Ayurvedic compound "Triphala" and has been used in traditional Indian medicine for thousands of years.

Lac ~ Kerria lacca

Crimson red, scarlet, deep pink. The resinous secretion of the lac insect (Kerria lacca), which colonises trees across India and Southeast Asia. Lac dye produces vibrant crimsons and scarlets on alum-mordanted fabric. It was one of India's most important export dyes. The word "lac" comes from the Hindi "lakh," meaning 100,000 ~ a reference to the vast numbers of insects required to produce a usable quantity of dye. Lac dyeing was historically centred in Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, and Jharkhand. It remains in limited use among artisan dyers.

Marigold, Henna, Kattha & Annatto

Marigold (Tagetes erecta): Warm yellow to golden orange. The flower petals contain the carotenoid pigment lutein. Marigold dyeing has gained attention as a sustainable practice, repurposing temple waste flowers. Henna (Lawsonia inermis): Reddish-brown to deep orange-brown. The active colourant lawsone binds to proteins in the fibre. Far more widely known as mehndi body decoration, but its textile use is historical and significant. Kattha (Acacia catechu): Brown, reddish-brown, khaki. Also known as "cutch" in the English-language dye trade. Kattha was one of India's major dye exports during the colonial period, used for producing khaki cloth ~ from the Hindi-Urdu word "khaki," meaning dust-coloured. Annatto (Bixa orellana): Warm orange to burnt sienna. Originally from the Americas but long cultivated in India. More commonly used as a food colourant today, but its textile applications are historical.

Indian artisan woman holding up finished indigo-dyed fabric with traditional white resist pattern

REGIONAL specialities

India's natural dye traditions are deeply regional. Each landscape produces its own palette, shaped by local botany, mineral geology, water chemistry, and centuries of accumulated craft knowledge.

Rajasthan: The heartland of Indian block printing ~ indigo (blue), madder and alizarin (red), pomegranate rind (yellow), iron/kas (black), and myrobalan (base mordant). The printing centres of Sanganer, Bagru, and Barmer each have distinctive colour traditions.

Gujarat & Kutch: The Ajrakh printing tradition uses a palette derived almost entirely from natural sources. The Khatri community of Ajrakhpur has maintained these traditions across generations.

Explore Artisan Villages

FROM SOUTH TO central India

Andhra Pradesh & Tamil Nadu: The Kalamkari traditions of Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti use a natural dye palette based on myrobalan, iron, alum, indigo, and locally sourced plant dyes. The kasimi (iron acetate) used in Kalamkari is prepared using a method similar to the kas of Rajasthan ~ iron scraps fermented in jaggery water.

Madhya Pradesh: Bagh printing, centred in the town of Bagh on the banks of the Bagh River, is one of India's most celebrated natural dye traditions. The Khatri families of Bagh use a palette of alizarin red and indigo blue, with iron black accents, applied through hand-carved wooden blocks. The entire process ~ from fabric preparation through dyeing and washing ~ uses the mineral-rich water of the Bagh River, which contributes to the distinctive quality of the finished cloth.

Two artisans handling vivid indigo-dyed fabric at the workshop, unfolding the deep blue cloth across the printing table

Dyeing cotton in indigo bath for Daughters of India Deep Sea collection

Fabric being bound and prepared for the badal tie-dye technique in indigo

From left: Pouring natural dye. Dyeing cotton in indigo. The badal tie-dye technique.

Rich red-dyed fabric laid out after the madder and marmalade dyeing process

THE revival

After more than a century of decline following the introduction of synthetic dyes, India's natural dye traditions are experiencing a renaissance. Driven by growing global awareness of textile pollution, the slow fashion movement, and a renewed appreciation for handmade authenticity, natural dyes are finding new markets and new practitioners.

Organisations such as the Craft Revival Trust, the Calico Museum of Textiles in Ahmedabad, and numerous grassroots cooperatives are working to document, preserve, and revitalise natural dye knowledge. Young designers are collaborating with traditional dyers to create contemporary garments using ancient colour palettes.

What is Slow Fashion?

INDIA'S COLOUR memory

This revival matters not just for environmental reasons, but for cultural ones. The knowledge of which roots to dig, which season to harvest, how long to ferment, which mordant to pair with which dye ~ this is intangible cultural heritage of extraordinary depth and value. Every dyer who practises these techniques is a living repository of knowledge that stretches back thousands of years. The revival of natural dyeing is, in a very real sense, the preservation of India's colour memory.

Artisan pouring dye solution from a green bucket at the indigo printing workspace

THE ARTISAN'S knowledge

The dyers who continue these traditions carry an extraordinary depth of knowledge ~ not written in textbooks but held in the hands, the senses, and the memory of people who have spent lifetimes working with roots, leaves, minerals, and water. Their craft is India's colour memory made living.

Explore Further

THE WORLD OF natural colour

Close-up of indigo-printed fabric showing the detailed white resist pattern against deep blue dye

Indigo ~ The King of Dyes

India's blue gold that changed the world.

Indian artisan woman preparing materials in her traditional workshop, showcasing authentic handloom textile production for Daughters of India

Madder & Earth Pigments

Reds, pinks, and the colours drawn from the land.

Dye and mordant mixing tray used in the block printing process, showing vivid colour paste

The Art of Mordanting

The ancient science of fixing colour to cloth.

Sustainable Dyeing

How traditional dyeing practices protect waterways and communities.

Explore All Craft Pages

Shipping & Returns

Our slow fashion garments are handcrafted by artisan communities in India, supporting women's empowerment and preserving ancient textile traditions.

We are a small team however we endeavour to process your order within 1-3 business days. You'll receive a tracking number by email once your order ships.

Delivery	Australia	International
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Express	1–5 days	2–5 days

You can find our full shipping policy here.

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Items must be returned in original condition — unworn, unwashed with tags attached, folded neatly in the Daughters of India tote bag provided.
To arrange your return, contact us at hello@daughtersofindia.net. We recommend using a trackable shipping service.
Refunds are processed within 5–7 business days of receiving the return.
Final sale items are not eligible for returns or store credit.

You can find our full returns policy here.

Shipping & Returns

Our slow fashion garments are handcrafted by artisan communities in India, supporting women's empowerment and preserving ancient textile traditions.

We are a small team however we endeavour to process your order within 1-3 business days. You'll receive a tracking number by email once your order ships.

Delivery	Australia	International
Standard	3–7 days	5–10 days
Express	1–5 days	2–5 days

You can find our full shipping policy here.

Items must be returned in original condition — unworn, unwashed with tags attached, folded neatly in the Daughters of India tote bag provided.
To arrange your return, contact us at hello@daughtersofindia.net. We recommend using a trackable shipping service.
Refunds are processed within 5–7 business days of receiving the return.
Final sale items are not eligible for returns or store credit.

You can find our full returns policy here.

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